too old for dreads

We left the mountains today and are currently on an express train heading for New Delhi – feeling very relaxed. 

This morning the sky was crystal clear in Shimla and we finally got the view we’d been waiting for – the snow-capped Himalayas in the distance (hard to spot on the pic!) What a treat. One day we need to come back. Annapurna Circuit anyone?

Then it was on to the ‘toy train’, so called because of its narrow gauge. 

The train rolls down the mountainside from Shimla to Kalka, a distance of 96km at a speed which meant we were frequently overtaken by the numerous butterflies in the forest. The line, which was completed in 1903 is now deservedly on the UNESCO World Heritage list. 

We had a big breakfast before we left because we knew we wouldn’t really be eating again today. The journey to Kalka would take six hours followed by another four to Delhi. No chance of a meal today then …

What we hadn’t bargained for was true, genuine and heartwarming Indian hospitality. 

Before we’d even got on the train we were sharing chai with our new friends. They were insistent that as visitors to their country we were going to be treated by them throughout the day. 

The carriage was small and therefore it would have been tricky not speaking to our fellow passengers – but I reckon we’d have done a good job of ignoring each other in the UK. 

As this was India, it wasn’t long before we were all chatting; finding out what we’d all been up to, who was going where and why. And of course, what everyone thought about Clinton and Trump (turns out not much love for either in India – what a surprise!)

Then the food started. I foolishly called it lunch; ‘that was just a snack’ I was quickly told. It was followed by fruit, then lunch (stuffed parantha and homemade pickle). Then a whole variety of street (platform) food bought on the stations and then the sweets (very odd and to be avoided).  

What a great journey. And what an experience. We’re starting to feel strangely at home here. 

The food continued on the express train with the four course meal that everyone gets. The cost is included in the ticket price and the quality was really good. Our train companies in the U.K. could learn a thing or two from the Indian railways about mass catering. 

The depressing bit at the end of the whole journey was watching one of the train staff pushing empty ice cream pots through a hole between two carriages, straight on to the line. More rubbish. So depressing and so unnecessary. Something has to change; we know they can because Shimla was clean and tidy. It can be done. 

We’re now stuffed and a bit weary but we’ve had a great day. Emails and WhatsApp details have been exchanged with our new friends and promises of visiting each other made. 

And you know what, I’ve a funny feeling we’ll see some of them again. 

Back now in Delhi and our faith in Indian hospitality has been well and truly restored. Now we just need to find a nice taxi driver who won’t rip us off …

… New Delhi station was just as much of a nightmare as it was when we left. Utter chaos and filth. Flies everywhere. So called porters wanting to take your bag; beggars everywhere and hordes of blokes claiming to be taxi drivers. 

The road outside the station is equally chaotic with cows asleep in the middle (naturally, as sacred animals they have a very special place in society – and therefore can do whatever they want on the road), cars, tuk-tuks, cycle rickshaws and people everywhere. Everyone going in different directions all at the same time regardless of which side of the road they’re on. All the drivers have one hand on the horn and the other on their smart phone. A tuk-tuk crashes in to the car in front and no-one bats an eyelid. It’s horrendous for about 500m and then once out of the station approach road, normal service is resumed. Still our taxi driver rolled chewing tobacco with one hand (mouth cancer must be a real problem here given the amount of empty packets on every pavement) and fiddled with his phone with the other hand. Not quite sure how we got here! 

What a relief to get out. Hopefully that’s the last we’ll see of New Delhi station (they say Old Delhi station is much worse). Nightmare. 

We’re staying in a B&B type place called Lutyens Bungalow. Nice to be in someone’s home in the heart of this crazy city. It’s a proper little oasis. We’ve got one day here and then we’re off to Oz. Very exciting. 

India has been amazing. It’s been hard work at times but we’ve relaxed in to it and grown to enjoy it. The whole experience has been made by all the people we’ve met along the way.